Fashion: Piracy, copying, and why you should care


“Bulletproof Babyphat 2″ on sale at SLExchange

I’ve noticed a lot of confusion about this particular subject – consistently. I am going to present my opinion about the subject and “where the line is” in hopes that it might help all of you evolve your own ideas about copying and inspiration from another designer, whether it be in real life or in a virtual world.

Maximilian Milos had an experience last year with Herman Miller. Maximilian really enjoyed the HM designs, and wished to bring them in world. He did what few other designers do – he contacted them for permission. HM granted Max permission to replicate their designs.

However, later on HM began looking into Second Life and around the time that Armani was moving in, HM contracted Rivers Run Red to replicate their products for Second Life. Max was a little concerned, so he contacted HM again and was assured that he was fine, and not to worry.

Max did stop selling his HM recreations after finding out that Rivers Run Red would be doing direct work with the company. He exercised caution – something not many people might have time to do.

Two weeks later, Max logged in to discover that all of his HM creations were missing from his sim – the Lindens had deleted them. Whether this was action from Herman Miller or Rivers Run Red, Maximilian isn’t positive. He never received a cease and desist letter – his items were simply gone. Maximilian wasn’t even trying to masquerade the items as his own designs; he takes care to always clearly credit the original designer. HM wanted it gone, and thus it was so – the Lindens made sure of it. (You can read Maximilian’s reaction at SLNN )

Now imagine this scenario with less communication. So many designers in Second Life both fail to ask permission of the original designer and also don’t bother to give credit by leaving a notecard with the item.

Fashion in Second Life carries data strands along with it – that’s called a UUID. It identifies the particular texture or prim object within the system. Suppose the original company happened to come into Second Life, discovered the replications and demanded that Linden Lab remove them. Linden Lab could, potentially and if pushed hard enough, call up the UUID and delete every single item out there.

After all, we did and do agree to the Linden Lab Terms of Service every time we log in, stating that anything we upload to their servers is, effectively, theirs if they so choose.

Now, let’s take a look at the real world for more information. I’m sure some of you from the United States are familiar with the chain “Forever 21″, which displays their knockoff clothing without order, without care, under blaring fluorescent lights and deafening techno music. “Forever 21″ isn’t exactly an innocent shop chain — they’ve experienced lawsuit, after lawsuit, after lawsuit – and mostly from designers.

Diane von Furstenberg filed a copyright infringement lawsuit with Forever 21 over the copy of two dresses – the “Aubrey” and “Cerisier”. Neither are perfect duplicates of DVF’s, but they’re “close enough” to get a lawsuit go-ahead. The lawsuit is based on the fabric designs. The lawsuit goes on to say that Forever 21′s dresses are near to exact scale of the DVF’s and the color is also dead-on. The infringement, they say, was willful.


Diane Von Furstenberg “Cerisier” dress on the left, with Forever 21′s copy on the right.

The DVF lawsuit also contains more allegations of copyright infringement, federal and state unfair competition, false designation of origin and unlawful deceptive acts. DVF asked that Forever 21 recall and remove all of these dresses, including advertisements that depicted the items. DVF also asked for “unspecified” financial damages. (Hm, maybe compensation for all revenue generated?) DVF’s motivation was and is simply to protect her brand’s intellectual property.

The DVF vs. Forever 21 suit occurred in March of 2007. She is, effectively, the person that “got the legal ball rolling” – she paved the way for other designers to file lawsuits and gave people like Gwen Stefani the ability to also file a lawsuit with the Forever 21 chain over design infringement (Read: Direct copying) and Stuart Weitzman used DVF’s springboard to take on JCPenny.

You can follow the Harajuku Lovers LLC v. Forever 21 Inc. lawsuit here. Jury trial for the case is scheduled for October 28th, 2008.

Legally, the only thing that a designer can copyright at the moment is something absolutely distinctive – a logo (Babyphat, anyone? Louis Vuitton?) or a particular pattern (Burberry), occasionally going as far as embroidery. However, while one might not obtain a copyright, one might gain a patent for a particular item – and patents tend to hold up in court.


“Louis Vuitton” Rosher Bag, on sale at SLExchange.

“In an age of ‘knock-offs,’” says Sheppard Mullin of FashionApparelLawBlog.com, “patent protection is an avenue that can be used by the fashion and apparel industry to protect products.” There are two sorts of patents that fashion as a community can use – “utility patents” which protect the way an invention is used and works, and “design patents”, which protect the ornamental appearance of a useful article.

Infringement on patent is determined by an impartial observer. Infringement exists if the impartial observer can not tell the difference between the two – or thinks that they are similar enough that the products are both by the same company. Immediate recognition is the problem – not variations. Someone could say, “Oh, I like that hem!” and add, say, a princess-cut sleeve and military style cuff to top off a shirt and it would be, effectively, changed enough to avoid a lawsuit or simple infringement.

One news article I read today claimed that “piracy” of all things was the motivation behind the fashion industry. Not so. The fashion industry is propelled by innovation and development, not outright piracy of designs. Mullin, of the aforementioned blog, urges new designers to consider filing for patent protection to curb rampant imitation.

Diane von Furstenburg recently told the LA Times that design piracy is “counterfeiting without the label”.

And of course, underground counterfeits are rampant in real life but are not unknown. The Los Angeles Police Department recently conducted a raid (one of many) that confiscated over $8 million in counterfeit goods and arrested 26 people. The copied designs ranged from Prada to Rolex, Fendi to Gucci.

I digress.


Balenciaga’s Fall 2007 design on the left, Paper Couture’s following creation, as covered previously on Shopping Cart Disco.

One might argue that Second Life fashion, boiled down, is nothing more than an image of the original outfit, and therefore not infringing on anything nor stepping on anyone’s toes. This is not correct.

As near as I can tell, Photosourcing is the worst offender in all of these cases because it doesn’t allow for the variations – colors, logo mish-mashing, etc – that could save you from legal trouble. Hand-drawn items come into issue when they are recognizable, and the original creator is not attributed.


Alexander McQueen on the left, Cachet on the right, as covered previously at Shopping Cart Disco.

One might also argue that Second Life is the best place to have these things, since they are unobtainable in “First Life” for so many. But at what cost? What happens if the original designer discovers what you’re doing as a virtual designer, virtual artist – and worse, discovers that you made income off of it?

The best you can do if the original company comes after you (seeing as how Second Life is splattered all over the internet and Flickr, and god knows who you’re actually running into in Second Life – I hear Drew Carey logs in with his girlfriend) is play possum. Fork over everything, delete it all off of the SL servers and apologize profusely. I would imagine that refusing to do so could result in some severe actions from the original company and designer, spurred on by anger over theft.

Better yet, don’t create these distinctly copied items at all. It’s not that we don’t enjoy them. I’m sure we all enjoy a knockoff or two on some level. It’s just the fear of legalities and artistic integrity that smell funny in the end.

—Special thanks to Sheppart, Mullin, Richter & Hampton, LLP for running such a fantastic setup of legal information.

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